History
EARLY HISTORY
Very little is known about Cilybebyll before Norman times, however it is known that Cairns and Barrows were scattered on the local hills around Pontardawe. The Tumuli of Farteg Hill, and the Caims on Mynydd Marchywel are typical examples, both in the Parish of Cilybebyll. A ‘hoard’ found on Mynydd Marchywel contained some interesting finds, among the items discovered was a large leaf-shaped sword about two feet long, and a socketed bronze axe, about four inches long; it was possible to date them as belonging to the late bronze age, about 800 BC. It is thought that these implements may have been left on Mynydd Marchywel by a travelling smith. This would seem to be the earliest information available about the area; from this time on little is known until Norman times.
THE ROMAN PERIOD
This part of the story must of necessity be made up of supposition and speculation. We know that a Roman garrison was stationed at Neath (Nidum) only five miles away, to protect the port of Neath, and the military communications along the South Wales coast. In the Parish itself we know that there were Roman roads on Marchywel, and on ‘Tynygraig,’ which may well have been linked to Neath.
The name of Cilybebyll itself may have some link with Roman Wales at this time. A literal translation of the name would be ‘retreat of tents’, or ‘hidden place of tents’! Although too far away from the fortress of Neath to be civil encampment, Cilybebyll could have been a camp where Roman legionnaires might have spent their time off duty, being only five miles form Neath, it would have been an ideal location. Unfortunately there is no evidence to support this theory.
It is unfortunate that at some time many of the documents referring to the Parish Church were either lost or destroyed. Consequently, documentary evidence is not available. What information there is, is contained in the Parish registers, the Cilybebyll Estate Records, and parts of a small number of books.
NORMAN TIMES
Perhaps the most informative document on the history of Cilybebyll during this period was produced by Archbishop C.A.H. Green, then the Vicar of Aberdare, who wrote the following...
“Neath Abbey is situated in the Parish of Catwg, or Cadoc, in the Lordship of Neath. In this Lordship were four ‘Manors’, as well as the Town of Neath, there were ‘Monerium Nedd’, ‘Citra Nedd’, ‘Ultra Nedd’, and ‘Cilybebyll’. The Abbey of Neath was founded by Richard de Granville, who held the Lordship of Neath, and his wife Constance, A.D. 1129-30. They had no children to inherit their estates and they gave Cilybebyll Church together with the tithes to the service of Neath Abbey. In 1291 Cilybebyll Church was in the possession of Neath Abbey, the gift was confirmed in 1486. In the 1932-33 transactions of the Neath Antiquarian Society it is stated that ‘the Church was granted to the Abbey of Neath by Richard de Granville, with it went the manors.
These lands were soon afterwards exchanged with Rhys, third son of Iestyn ap Gwrgant, for land at Solven. Another reference tells us that, ‘In 1262, in consequence of the frequent wars between the Welsh and the English, most of the lands of Cilybebyll were lying waste’. We hear again of warfare at Cilybebyll at the end of 1315, when Llewellyn Bren, a Welsh nobleman of the Cantref of Seaghenydd, thought it time to rise against the government of the Normans. He made sporadic raids on Cilybebyll, destroying three mills and houses, and killing a number of tenants. The war began at the end of 1315, and lasted nine weeks.
This is borne out by the fact that the lands of Cilybebyll, in the hands of the Lord of Glamorgan in 1316-17, were considered to be of little value to him; because of the recent damage and losses sustained in them. We also know that the administrative unit of Pontardawe came into existence long after Cilybebyll formed part of the Hundred and Union of Neath.
LATER HISTORY
During the next century the Lordship of Glamorgan reverted to King Henry VII, and remained in his possession until part of Neath and Cilybebyll were sold to William Herbert, Earl of Pembroke, by Elizabeth I, who remained in possession from 1560 to 1683. The right of presentation to the benefice however, remained to the Crown, which had secured it at the Reformation.
In 1710, under the term of ‘Queen Anne’s Bounty’ £200 was given towards the priest of the parish, this privilege ended in 1835. Until 1825 the ‘Book of Sports’ was read from the pulpit of the Parish Church, this book regulated and stated what sports could be practised on the Sabbath. After Church services, many people played ball against the Church Tower, but in 1840, the Reverend William Thomas stopped this practise.
PRESENT BUILDING
The nave and chancel of the present Church is the result of a restoration carried out in 1869, by John Griffiths, contractor of ‘Twtn-Y-Morgug’, Alltwen, the grandfather of Mr. Illtyd Williams. No work was carried out on the tower at that time. The tower has an ancient appearance, especially the interior. The outside seems to have had some work done to it at some time or other. There is a curved stone staircase, which is built into the wall and which leads to the belfry, where three bells hung for centuries. We know from photographic proof, (taken before the restoration in 1867,) that the Church was longer than it is now. The windows were different to the preset ones, and two doors appear in the south wall of the Church. The roof looks as though it was made of stone, and there was no division of the roof between nave and chancel, as at present.
The tower is built in the Norman style, as is the Church, containing a small chancel, nave and porch facing in a southerly direction. The tower is at the western end of the Church, where another door leads into the interior, with a single isle down the centre. The walls of the tower are over four feet thick, no doubt originally built for defence, being pierced at intervals with narrow windows, again defensive rather than decorative.
THE REGISTERS
The registers are not in very good condition, although they have recently been rebound. The first entries in the registers are as follows; First Baptism 1776; first marriage 1814; first burial recorded 1813.
There are grave stones around the Church dating back to 1743, there is one stone in memory of Richard Hopkin to be seen on the floor under the door leading from the belfry to the Church, which dates back to 1705 or 1725, (it is difficult to decipher). The oldest stone visible, is set in the wall of the tower, and it records the death of Mary Herbert, wife of William Herbert in 1719. There is also a stone on the same wall bearing the name of Gwenllian Hopkin, dated 1734.
STAINED GLASS
The Church has only one stained glass window, the East window, over the Altar. It was placed there on November 14, 1914. The window bears the inscription, “To the glory of God, and in affectionate remembrance of Herbert Lloyd Esq., J.P. of Plas Cilybebyll, this window is erected by his personal friends.”
The window depicts the Resurrection scene, with the risen Christ in the centre window, in the two windows on each side, Mary Magdalene and the disciples, Peter and John, with the guards of the sepulchre at the bottom of the window.
THE CHURCHYARD
The Churchyard is built in the circular shape common to many ancient churchyards. Ancient tradition has it that a circular churchyard gave the Devil nowhere to hide. The oldest stone is dated 1743. The vault of the Lloyd family lies at the eastern end of the church, outside the east window. Outside the main door of the church is what appears to be the base of an ancient cross, although there is no record of it, and nobody in living memory can recall it.
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